When Penetrating Oil Doesn't Cut It

If your quad is anything like mine then it has seen a hard life. I purchased mine as a used fixer upper and it had seen plenty of mud. So much in fact that it had made its way into everything. Every nut, brake pad, bearing, etc.

At this point it seems hopeless but you reach for that as seen on TV penetrating fluid that has never let you down and blast it. You even let it sit for 24 hours and still it won't budge. Then you get the torch. After plenty of heat and smoke from the penetrating fluid it still won't budge. You guess it is time to break out the drill bits and taps right? Well hold on there. There may be hope yet. A simple trick just may save you before you give up. Machinists know this one well and it won't cost you much at all. Take a ride down to the local dollar store armed with a buck and purchase a few candles. I doesn't particularly matter what kind, but if lavender scent suits your fancy then go for it.

The trick here is Paraffin. While most penetrating lubricants contain paraffins they do not contain them in the concentrations that a candle does. Why? Because obviously in the concentrations a candle has them, they are solid at room temperature. Rather they are mixed with lighter petroleum distillates. In most cases these rust busters work fine. The lighter petroleum distillates not only lubricate and creep through rust but allow the paraffins to flow into the crevices and work their magic.

So now that you have the candle what do you do. Return to the torch that is what. Once again heat the affected area up. Be sure to apply heat as evenly as possible around the entire affected area but don't stray far from the fastener. A lower temperature setting and extra time is recommended here. You want everything heated thoroughly and the heat to go the depth of the fastener. Once you think you have it apply the candle directly around the head of the bolt, hole, or threads. Allowing the wax to be drawn into the threads. Reapply heat and repeat the waxing process. After a couple applications of wax attempt to remove the bolt but don't risk breaking it. Hopefully it goes but if it doesn't repeat the process. Be sure to clean the threads afterwards.

When all else has failed this has always came through for me. Best of all I can find three packs of candles at the local dollar mart for a buck and they out perform the best penetrating fluids.

Fourtrax Plug Boot Replacement

All parts wear out overtime, it is just a fact of nature. However if you are not educated on how to find aftermarket replacements you could end up paying too much. This is the case with the TRX300 plug wire boot. The actual part is most likely referred to as a resistor cap.

Rather than purchase a Honda replacement for $20 I decided to search around and see what I could find cheaper. Guess what? I did.

Mind you when I say cheaper I don't mean lesser quality either. This resistor cap is hard plastic with rubber weather boots on it as opposed to the factory soft rubber boot. It is also manufactured by NGK the same company Honda recommends for spark plugs.

So you are probably wondering how to find this part. Well it is called a VD05F Spark Plug Cap #8052. I found mine online and $2.76 + shipping. That is a far cry from the $20 the dealership wants.

Guess what? It works great also. I have put plenty of time on it and haven't had a single problem.

Which oil is best

If you search around the internet for the best oil I think you will come to a conclusion that marketing has pretty much taken over that question. However when it comes to your Fourtrax you are still in question about what type of oil is best.

The answer is really simple although a lot of oil distributors do not want you to know this. It can be found by looking in a factory service manual. I am not even suggesting using the brand of oil listed in the manual though.

While recommendations on viscosity can change with temperature for general use it is recommended that you use an API SF OR SG 10W40 motor oil. So which brand? It is the authors opinion that the brand of oil is not nearly as important as meeting the API specifications and manufacture requirements. Beyond that most oil companies get their base stocks from the same place and just change their additive package.

If you are looking for a good oil I would suggest going to your local auto parts store and look for ATV specific oil meeting the SF or SG API specifications that is rated for use with a wet clutch. Motorcycle oil of the same viscosity rated for a wet clutch and meeting the specifications listed in the service manual will work equally as well.

Do not run out and buy the slickest synthetic oil in 10W40 that you can find and dump it in. First off it absolutely has to be rated for a wet clutch and it has to meet the SF and SG specifications. A lot of these oil companies hide behind the Magnuson Ferguson act mis-representing the reason for this act in it's entirety. The act states that if you modify a vehicle under warranty and it fails due to something unrelated to the modification the manufacture must cover it since it must in fact be a defect. However oil companies will lead you to believe they have not met API testing because the manufacture of your atv is just pulling the wool over your eyes. They aren't though. Honda knew well what to put in their machinery and putting the wrong type of oil in your atv will quickly lead to a slipping clutch.

Your atv does not need additives, it won't benefit from a different type of oil than specified, and will suffer clutch issues if you do not use the appropriate type of oil.

The author believes that frequent oil changes, always replacing the filter at changes, and maintaining proper oil temperature will always be far more important than brand names. Snake oils are just that, snake oil. The key to a good running, long lasting engine will always be appropriate maintenance.

Good tools to have

When working on your quad there are obviously tools you should have and some that will make life easier. For years I have made things work where I don't have a specialized tool. However when I finally do acquire the specialized tools I often find life so much easier. Without saying you should at least possess a good assortment of hand tools. You can usually find these at department and home improvement stores labeled as mechanics tool sets. I would highly recommend a both standard and metric tools. A good selection of both standard and deep well sockets will certainly help. You should have 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" sockets and ratchets. A good selection of both standard and metric wrenches, also a good crescent wrench or two wouldn't hurt. Pipe wrenches are good for big axle nuts on quads unless you want to invest in an axle wrench. You should also have various allen wrenches, screw drivers, awls, picks, and pliers.

Beyond your hand tools there are various specialty tools that will make life much easier.

I don't know where I would be today without my air compressor. I have various medical issues with my hands and wrists, using air tools alleviates strain for me. Also air compressors are good for a variety of other tasks. Such as airing up tires, blowing things out with the blow gun, and providing a power source for a variety of tools. If you were to list the number of pneumatic tools available today the list would span many pages.

Two of my favorite tools I use my compressor for are my impact wrench and air ratchet. You may recognize the term impact wrench from racing or mechanics shops. While I would never condone the use of an impact wrench to install a fastener I do use mine quite frequently to remove larger fasteners. This is important. Using an impact wrench to install a fastener can cause havoc quickly. The impact forces created can quickly exceed the bolts yield strength, either stretching it or snapping it off. You also shouldn't use impact wrenches on smaller fasteners. As they can easily snap them regardless of the direction they are turning.

All though an impact wrench can make life easier it can also make it much harder if the socket you are using is not up to the task. The impact blows the hammers inside the wrench exert on the socket can be damaging to normal sockets. Impact sockets are often characterized by their flat black color and thick walls. It is important that you always use impact sockets with an impact wrench. Also any extensions or swivels should equally be impact rated. Since we are on the subject of safety some good mechanics gloves, long sleeves, and safety goggles wouldn't hurt either.

There is also a tool called an impact driver. I received mine with my cordless drill. These can be used to remove stubborn screws, smaller bolts and nuts, as well as a variety of other fasteners if you have the correct bit. I would recommend if you are in the market for a decent cordless drill that you buy a kit that includes one of these impact drivers as I have found mine extremely useful. It will really speed things up.

Lastly I can't say how many times I have had to measure something. Certainly you should have the basics such as rulers, tape measures, etc. However there are often times you need a little more precision. I have found my digital calipers to be invaluable when figuring out bolt lengths and thicknesses after everything has gotten out of order. You can get a set for less than $20 from most of the import tool stores and even online. I have checked mine and they are extremely accurate despite the low purchase price. Certainly a must have for any tool box.

Last but certainly not least are taps, dies, and bits. Why? Well if you work on things long enough you are going to screw up, or at the very minimum need to clean some threads. An assortment of metric and standard dies and taps will help save you should you make a mistake. I would recommend spending the extra for the titanium coated taps and dies. Also make sure you have a large assortment of drill bits. When tapping a hole to a larger size the tap manufacture will often times specify a specific drill bit size to use. So a large assortment, once again titanium coated, is extremely helpful.

This certainly isn't every tool you could possibly need or want I could go on for days. However these are some of my most used and most prized tools that I own. They make the job much easier and help me get out of jambs.

Feel free to add your favorites in the comments below and happy wrenching.

When your Fourtrax doesn't crank

When trying to diagnose a fail to crank condition there are a few things that you need to look at first. First is the battery. In order to diagnose a starting condition the battery needs to be fully charged and in good health. Most auto part stores can test batteries. Chances are if your battery is more than a couple years old you could just need a battery. ATV batteries typically don't last as long as car batteries.

Once you have confirmed your battery is good the next step is to check the terminals. If they have corrosion on them you will need to clean them. An easy way to clean battery terminals is with baking soda paste and a wire brush. In a small dish mix 3 tablespoons of baking soda and 1 tablespoon of warm water. Dip the wire brush in the paste and use it to scrub the terminals. Wipe the terminals off with a clean shop towel and check to make sure all the corrosion is removed. If the corrosion extends far into the terminal leads you may need to replace them.

It is always important to be sure the quad is in neutral. Also ensure that the run switch is positioned in the run position and not in the off position.

Next you should check the switch that controls the starter. Typically it is located on the handle bars and in the case of the TRX300 it is located by the left hand grip. Using a multi-meter you can test this at the starter solenoid. In the case of the TRX300 there will be two small gauge wires going to the solenoid. Remove them and place a multi-meter lead on each. Having an assistant press the button check for continuity. There should be no connection when the switch isn't pressed and a connection when it is. Reconnect the wires after the test is complete. If the switch tests bad replace it.

Once we know that the battery, cables, and start switch are up to the task but the quad is still not turning over we need to look at the solenoid and starter.

The starter solenoid is basically an electronic switch that allows a low current device like the starter button on your handle bar control a high current device like the starter. Obviously running all that current the starter requires through the little wires on the starter switch would cause the wires to overheat. However when solenoids go bad often times they will click but not transfer power to the starter or make no sound at all. Now just because it clicks doesn't mean its bad. Solenoids will normally click but they will also close the circuit for the starter, creating a circuit.

The easiest way to test whether the solenoid or the starter is bad is to bypass the solenoid by jumping it's leads. On top of the solenoid you will see two posts in which the starter and battery leads connect. Using a screw driver you want to momentarily short these two leads together. You will often times see a spark. If the starter motor begins to turn it is a good indication that your solenoid is bad. Solenoids can be found for around $25 online and a few auto part stores are now carrying them for about the same price.

If it doesn't then you need to check to make sure you wires are well connected to the starter. If the wires have a connection to the solenoid then it is a good bet that your starter is dead and is in need of rebuild or replacement. Starter motors can be found for around $150 online.

Stripped Drain Plugs on the TRX300

The Honda Fourtrax 300 or TRX300 or any atv for that matter is prone to having the drain plug stripped if too much force is used when re-installing it. This is because the threads are cut directly into the case, which just so happens to be made of cast aluminum.

I have heard of many repairs over the years ranging from over-sized drain plugs with self cutting threads, threaded steel inserts, thread repair coils, and even JB weld.

Never use a 1/2" over-sized self threading drain plug from the automotive shop on the TRX300 or any ATV that utilized a 12mm drain bolt. Why you ask? A 1/2" over-sized drain plug is for exactly what it sounds like. To replace a 1/2" drain plug when the threads have been stripped. Installing one of these in place of a 12mm drain plug can cause a wedge effect essentially splitting the cases cast aluminum. Once this happens you are either going to be shelling out the cash for a good welder to repair the crack (after a complete tear down) or be buying a new case ($$$.)

Threaded inserts do make wonderful repairs. However the cost for one of these repair kits is easily over $100. So it is far from economical.

In my experience heli-coils are alright for most thread repairs but I would never use them in an application such as a plug. I also don't like to use them in applications where the fastener will be removed and installed frequently.

So what do I feel is the best repair. A normal replacement 1/2" drain plug, not an over-sized, nor a self-cutting. Just a replacement drain plug. You will need a couple tools though.

First is a 1/2"-20 Tap. This tap may be a little difficult to find at poorly stocked big chain hardware stores. However smaller hardware stores and automotive shops usually have these for around $5. Pay close attention and make sure it is a 1/2"-20 and not a 1/2"-13.

The next thing you will need which might take some work is a 29/64" drill bit. I managed to find one of these at my local hardware store. It sat me back about $8.

Next is grease. I prefer grease over cutting fluid for this application. Since we will be working with the crankcase and more importantly the area in which the oil is stored in the engine we want to keep as many metal chips out of there as we can. It is advised you keep the old engine oil to flush the engine with after this procedure is complete.

Lastly is your 1/2"-20 drain plug and gasket. Yes I do mean a gasket. If you have ever noticed a spot under your quad where the drain plug is? It probably has to do with this. The gasket will look a lot like an o-ring. Since you are stepping up to a 1/2" drain plug, gaskets will be easy to find. Every auto-store will have an assortment for this size. It is recommended that you replace this gasket at every oil change. After all, it is cheap insurance and only costs a couple cents.

Start by draining the engine of oil. Next you will need to get a drill. I used a hand held cordless when doing mine. Insert the 29/64" bit into the chuck and apply grease to the flutes. Use a relatively low speed on the drill, keep the drill straight while drilling, and don't go too deep. You really shouldn't have to drill through much more than a 1/4". You do not need to apply much pressure, let the drill bit do the work.

Once the hole is drilled you need to get your tap and tap handle. I do recommend using a tap handle so that the tap goes in straight. Once again apply grease to the tap flutes. Insert the tap and begin to turn. Thread the tap in a little bit, then back it out a half turn or so to clean the flutes. Repeat until the tap has cut in to a sufficient depth to thread the hole entirely.

Now you should have shiny new threads cut for your drain plug but you aren't finished yet. Put your oil pan back under your quad and pour the old oil back through the fill hole. Yes the oil is going to run right out the drain, this is what you want. You are flushing any remaining chips out of the engine. You can also use kerosene or diesel to do this but I typically just use the old engine oil.

Now install the gasket on your new drain plug, it works just like a washer. Slide it over and call it a day. Now you can thread your new drain plug in. REMEMBER NOT TO FORCE IT THIS TIME! You only need to get it snug, no tighter. I would recommend using a deep well socket and just using your hand to turn it tight. Then get your ratchet and turn it another 1/8 of a turn.

Fill your quad back up with the recommended oil and check for leaks. If you don't see any you are done and can get back to enjoying your Fourtrax.